INTRODUCING KRISTIAN BAUMANN AT KOAN

1. Can you share with us your culinary journey and how it led you to establish Koan in Copenhagen? 


I grew up in a very traditional Danish family. My mother and grandmother served us very good traditional Danish dishes like pork roast with boiled potatoes and brown gravy and the women in my family would occasionally, also get cow meat to be shared between the households. 


I initially pursued sports during school, shifting to culinary studies in my final four years. After exploring traditional Danish kitchens, I left to do research, and then I felt a constant search for belonging, leading me back to Copenhagen. A transformative period in Denmark fuelled my desire to establish my own venture. In 2016, Restaurant 108 launched as a pop-up, quickly earning a Michelin star within six and a half months. 


In 2017, trips to South Korea made me even more curious and laid the foundation for KOAN, which officially opened at our permanent location in April 2023, hosting 23 guests per service from Tuesday to Friday, with an extra Saturday each month. The 17-course tasting menu beautifully expresses the fusion of Danish and Korean culinary traditions.

2. Koan reflects a unique dining experience. What philosophy or inspiration drives the culinary narrative at your restaurant?


Training in French and Nordic kitchen I always wondered what and where my shelve was, because I always thought that being adopted was my weakness, but now I know that it's my strength. At Restaurant Koan I’m able to combine the best of both worlds, sharing the memories, techniques, and tastes from our trips to Korea and pairing them with flavours of the Nordic region.


3. Are there specific dishes at Koan that you consider as your signature creations? Could you tell us about the inspiration behind 1-2 of them?


As a guest, for example, you will be able to experience Koan's white kimchi, with a traditional flavor profile and a visually modern expression, served in a work of art created by a Korean potter who has collected fragments of pottery from China's Qing Dynasty and combined them with new porcelain.


"A Kkwabaegi is traditionally a twisted, sweet doughnut. Koan's version is slightly saltier, fluffy, and buttery, which creates the experience of eating fresh, warm bread," I have a great fondness for bread and think it would be fun to share a memory from a trip to Korea, where a small afternoon snack in the form of a Kkwabaegi burned into his memory.

4. How does Nordic cuisine influence your approach to cooking, and how do you incorporate regional ingredients into your dishes? 


Diving into micro seasons is something that I really cherish. Each year is slightly different and I always try and find new ways of highlighting seasonal produce. From foraging spring and summer herbs and flowers to enjoying the special asparagus season.


5. Koan is known for its innovative approach to gastronomy. Could you share some examples of the creative techniques or unique ingredients you use in your kitchen? 


One of our latest dishes is a dish that we call The Flavours of Sundae. Sundae is a traditional Korean pork blood sausage that you can find at many restaurants and it’s also good if you are a little hungover. For me the most important part is to capture the flavours and that the sausage is warm and moist. We have found a way to make the shell crispy as well – so that you as a diner get the different textures as well.


6. If you knew a young chef was looking at you as a mentor and liked to follow your steps, what would be one piece of advice you would give him to help his career? 


Follow your heart - work closely with people who inspire you. Invest in yourself by learning the craft since to me that’s more valuable than money.


7. In blending traditional and modern culinary techniques, how do you strike a balance to create a harmonious dining experience?


We want to bring our guests with us on a journey, sharing memories and ideas from our trips to South Korea over the years. Just as important is creating an intimate space where people are seated close to the kitchen but still far enough away that they feel like they have their own space and can speak freely.

8. Have there been any notable collaborations or culinary inspirations that have influenced your cooking style or the menu at Koan?

 

Visiting Jeong Kwan at the Baekyangsa Temple, 5 hours outside Seoul, really made a huge impact on me and my perspective in life as well as cooking. Her approach to cooking is incredible. It was a beautiful experience foraging, as well as tasting the different “jangs” and speaking fermentation with her.


9. Sustainability is a growing concern in the culinary world. How does Koan approach sustainability, both in terms of sourcing ingredients and managing kitchen waste or other ways? 


We love working closely with our producers and I think that is one of the most important steps. This way we can be guided and have a deeper conversation. One of our dishes now is chilled noodles made from the heads of the lobster, we serve it with a sauce made from the claws of the lobster, and the tail is served in another serving. This isn’t something new to the culinary world but as long as you have the mentality of implementing this mindset to everything you do then you can go very far. 


Our restaurant is open Tuesday to Friday with one Saturday a month. We do one sitting for dinner and no lunch. The cooks come earlier than the front of the house but also leave earlier, allowing them to be home before 11 pm most nights which is something that rarely happened when I was coming up.


I stay close to the front of the house at then they arrive at the restaurant after midday. This allows the team to rest probably and also have a life outside the restaurant as well as be focused and able to live out their passion. For me this is also sustainability.


10. Looking ahead, what are your future plans for Koan? Are there any culinary goals or aspirations you'd like to share with our readers?


We want to get better each day and therefore we have small meetings where everyone shares something that they think we can improve. I think that also sustainability, in a way. We have a sponsorship program in place for all new employees, since for many it’s their first time in Denmark and they are far away from their families. 


This program allows them to have close contact for the first period they are at the restaurant. One of the most important things I want to build is a mentorship program. We are currently working on putting together a structured program where the senior staff will be sharing knowledge and responsibilities with the junior staff.


This will hopefully bloom into something that the people working with me now will bring with them into the future and share with their teams when that time comes.

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